上海煜捷紡織面料驗(yàn)貨規(guī)范
上海煜捷紡織技術(shù)有限公司面料驗(yàn)貨指引 Inspection Manual (E&JTEX)
驗(yàn)貨方法 Inspection method
1）驗(yàn)貨方法Inspection system
- 4 point system, this is recommended建議四分制
- use 20points/100 square yd as a ref. standard 統(tǒng)一用20分/100平方碼作為參考標(biāo)準(zhǔn)
2） 扣分方法Penalty points
Defects length up to 3” – 1point 疵點(diǎn)大小等于3英寸以下 - 扣1分
Defects length >3” <=6” – 2 points 疵點(diǎn)大于3英寸，小于等于6英寸 – 扣2分
Defects length >6” <=9” – 3 points疵點(diǎn)大于6英寸，小于等于9英寸 – 扣3分
Defects length >9” – 4 points疵點(diǎn)大于9英寸寸 – 扣4分
3）扣分其他規(guī)定 Other counting rules
- No more than 4 points in one yard regardless defects num. and length 無(wú)論疵點(diǎn)多少,大小,一碼布最多只計(jì)4分
- No 4 pointer is allowed in 1st or last one yard of a roll 頭尾一碼不容許有4分的疵點(diǎn)
- All holes consisted of two broken yarns or above, regardless size, dropped stitches, splices, or seams will be penalized 4 points 破洞扣4分
- Fabric rolls are only allowed one cut and counts as 4 points 一匹布只容許一個(gè)裁斷，并扣4分
- Fabric rolls are only allowed one seam and counted as 4 points一匹布只容許一個(gè)接匹（可接上或批匹），并扣4分
- Continuous defects in warp direction should be no longer than 3 running yards. If exceed, the fault should be cut away from the roll
沿布長(zhǎng)度方向不能有連續(xù)3米的疵點(diǎn)，如果有就要開(kāi)掉這3米
- 100% inspection 規(guī)定100%全驗(yàn)
- The side of fabric, normally face, must be rolled inside and clearly marked as the face 面料的正面必須打卷在里面，并有明確正面標(biāo)識(shí)
- A clean and well - kept and well - illuminated inspection area is required 驗(yàn)貨的地方必須干凈整潔， 光線要好
- Inspection speed no more than 15 yards per minute 驗(yàn)貨速度不能快于15碼/分鐘
驗(yàn)貨100平方碼分?jǐn)?shù)計(jì)算公式 Caculations of points per 100 square yds
每100平方碼分?jǐn)?shù) = 總分?jǐn)?shù)/碼長(zhǎng)(碼）/門(mén)幅（英寸）x 3600
公斤換算成碼的公式：
碼長(zhǎng) = 公斤/ 【門(mén)幅（米）x 克重（千克）】/ 0.9144
邊中色差評(píng)判方法Performance criteria
Side-center-side shading (grade 4-5 under grey scale)
Cut fabric along width direction into 4 pieces evenly, and then marked A/B/C/D in same direction. Sew to be B/A/D/C (edge tolerance 1CM）to see the color shading on the sew area. Grade the shading by grey scale. From left to right, the shading sequence is center + side / center +center / side + center 把面料沿門(mén)幅方向平均裁成4段，標(biāo)記為A/B/C/D, 注意上下一致； 然后按照B/A/D/C 的順序縫在一起（注意布邊1CM 內(nèi)縫線），按照用灰尺評(píng)估縫線的色差。從左自右依次是：中邊 、 中中、邊中色差。
緯斜和緯弧skewness & bow
- 緯斜或緯弧計(jì)算公式Bow or skewness % = A/B x100
- 緯斜或緯弧的要求Standard of skewness & bow
梭織布Woven: 3%
印花和格子布2%
條子布 1.5%
緯編針織布Weft knitting fabric:
含彈力的羅紋，雙面，單面Rib, interlock and single jersey with elastane Max最大 5%
不含彈力單面布，克重140g/m2 以上Single jersey without elastane > 140 g/m2 Max最大 10%
不含彈力的單面布，克重在140g/m2 以下Single jersey without elastane < 140 g/m2 Max最大 15%
常用疵點(diǎn)中英文對(duì)照&英文簡(jiǎn)寫(xiě)
驗(yàn)貨 – inspection
測(cè)試 – testing
合格 – pass
不合格 – fail
頭缸 – first bulk
匹條 – roll cutting
船樣 – shipping sample
色差 - color shading
缸差 - batch shading
邊中色差 - Side Center Side Shading
手感 - Hand feel
手感硬 – hand feel stiff
手感軟 – hand feel soft
垂性 – drippy
彈性 – Stretch
門(mén)幅 – width
克重 – weight per square meter
氣味 – smell /ode
怪味 – strange smell / ode
循環(huán)尺寸 – repeat size
緯斜 – sknewness
緯弧 – Bow
扭度 – twist / spirality
接匹（拼匹） – jointing piece
門(mén)幅窄 – width narrow
門(mén)幅寬 – width wide
米長(zhǎng) – Meter
碼長(zhǎng) – Yard
重量 – KG
短數(shù) – shortage of quantity
布邊卷曲 – curve edge
破邊 – broken edge
破洞 – hole
紗頭/紗節(jié)– ends
接頭 – yarn ends
棉粒/粒頭 – neps
粗紗 – coarse yarn
色紗 – color yarn
異纖 （尼龍草）- foreign yarn
斷紗 – broken yarn
斷經(jīng) – warp yarn broken
斷緯 – weft yarn broken
漏紗 – missing yarn
風(fēng)印 – weather mark
水波紋 – water mark
折痕 – folding mark
胚布痕 – weaving / knitting mark
布車(chē)壓痕 – folding mark from storage in the car
打卷印 – crease mark during rolling
皺印 – crease mark
緯檔 – weft bar
經(jīng)條（經(jīng)柳）- warp stripe
稀密路 – stripe caused by yarn uneven
布面不平 – uneven appearance
擦傷（擦痕）- scratching mark
臟點(diǎn) – dirty dot
臟污 – dirty / staining
白點(diǎn) – white dots
黑點(diǎn) – black dots
色點(diǎn) – color dots
色漬印 – color mark
白印 – white mark
色檔 – color bar
色花 – color uneven
成份 – composition
紗支 – yarn account
密度 – density
色牢度 – color fastness
洗水色牢度 – color fastness to washing
干洗色牢度 – color fastness to dry clean
水漬色牢度 – color fastness to water
干摩擦牢度 – color fastness to dry rubbing/ crocking
濕摩擦牢度 – color fastness to wet rubbing / crocking
汗?jié)n牢度 – color fastness to perspiration
光牢度 – color fastness to light
洗水縮率 – shrinkage after washing
干洗縮率 – shrinkage after dry clean
整燙縮率 – shrinkage after steam iron or press
起毛起球 – pilling
耐磨 – abrasion
撕破強(qiáng)力 – tear strength
拉伸強(qiáng)力 – tensile strength
接縫強(qiáng)力滑移 – seam slippage
頂破強(qiáng)力 – bursting strength
酸堿度（PH 值）- PH value
偶氮染料 – AZO dye
有害的化學(xué)物質(zhì) – RSS (restricted substances)
評(píng)級(jí) – grading
色變 – color change
沾色 – color staining
自沾色 –self staining
碼單（裝箱單）- pack list
客戶(hù) - customer
合同號(hào) – contract No.
品名 – item No.
顏色 – color
缸號(hào)/批號(hào) – batch / lot No.
卷號(hào) – roll No.
嘜頭 – Shipping marker
包裝 – packing
發(fā)貨 – shipping
SHANG HAI E&J TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD.
上海煜捷紡織技術(shù)有限公司
2018年5月擬定